Fishing with bait

Classic stray line rig

This is the one rig that may be responsible for most personal best snapper catches over the last 20 years in New Zealand.

The rig has not changed much since the dawn of time, apart from developments in trace and hook technology.  If you want to spend a bit more you can upgrade to flourocarbon leader, which is supposedly more invisible in the water, and is certainly tougher when it comes to rubbing on rocks.

The basic rig, as per the Illustration, has a short trace with the sinker hard against the hook. It is used mainly for casting baits (sometimes with no sinker) into a berley trail on a reef. It can also be used in deeper water.

Another good variation to use when surf casting or running a line out in shallower fast running currents, like you might find in the west coast or Tauranga harbours, is to move the sinker above the swivel onto the main line.  This is known commonly as a running rig, and it works very well.

Whole pilchard – Head first

Application: Straylining with various weights, running sinker rig, bottom fishing, cast-and-retrieve situations similar to a stickbait.

Equipment

• 1 x whole pilchard – recently defrosted
• 2 x hooks – sized to match the width of the pilchard (6/0 usually a good choice)
• 4 to 6 foot trace – author’s preference is 60-lb supple trace. Lighter fluorocarbon trace is an option
• Sinkers sized to match the fishing circumstances
• Scissors or clippers to trim trace

Before picking up the bait prepare a standard 2-hook trace as pictured. It is essential both hooks be fixed, as the bait cannot be correctly prepared with a swinging keeper hook. The first hook is attached with a uni-knot while the second is snelled to the trace.

Firstly place the point of the first hook on the lateral line of the pilchard, about three centimetres in front of the tail. Push the hook firmly through the spine line of the pilchard until the hook point and barb are clear on the other side. Rotate the hook to sit neatly against the bait with the eye of the hook at the head end of the bait.

The second snelled hook needs to be pushed through the bottom jaw of the pilchard vertically all the way up through the pilchard’s head. The ideal line is to have the hook pass almost touching the front of the pilchard’s eye socket, as pictured.

To finish load the trace for the appropriate sinker for the application (it may not require a sinker at all), tie to the mainline.

Note: This rig fishes well in all conventional applications and is particularly well suited as a quick and deadly cast-and-retrieve bait targeting kingfish around structures like channel markers and buoys.

Ledger rig

These are best used for 'bottom bashing' in moderate to deep water. The advantages is that the baits are above the sinker and the bites are easily detected. Also, the sinker can be easily changed as currents and depth changes. Ideal for snapper fishing in the channels around Auckland.

Cut baits for ledger rigs

Application: Any snapper-fishing situation but particularly well suited to deeper water - 50-metres plus – and areas of high current.

Equipment

• 1 x fresh or frozen skipjack tuna
• 2 x hooks – sized to match the width of the pilchard (6/0 usually a good choice)
• 6 – 8 foot trace – 60 to 80-lb stiff trace
• Sinkers sized to match the fishing circumstances
• A sharp knife
• Scissors or clippers to trim trace

Step one: Prepare a ledger rig using stiffer trace than normal. Stiff trace helps prevent the hooks from tangling around the main line.

Step two: Cut two angled wedges of skipjack tuna,
as demonstrated.

Step three: Trim any excess flesh from the pieces. The purpose is to ensure the bait size is well matched to the hook’s gape.

Step four: Pass the first hook all the way through a bait - start on the flesh side and pull the hook and its eye completely clear of bait on the skin side.

Step five: Push the point of the hook back through the bait so that the hook sits neatly against the skin side with the hook point and barb exposed on the flesh side of the bait.

Step six: Repeat the process with the second hook and the other bait. The final result should like the image hereabouts.

Step seven: Add the correct weight sinker to the bottom and of the ledger and you are ready to catch fish.

Note: The skipjack ledger rig is arguably the most versatile setup in any fisherman’s arsenal. It is easily downsized to target terakihi or upsized for hapuka and bluenose.

Flasher rigs or 'snatchers'

Made world famous in New Zealand by Black Magic tackle, the flasher rig is essentially a pre made dropper rig, tied on either 'J' or recurved hooks, each adorned with fish attracting artificial flash material.  This varies in colour and design, and sometimes will hook a fish without any bait being on the hook even.

Just fish them the same as you would a dropper rig

For more detail, check out the video from Black Magic here...

Soft baiting

The use of artificial soft bait lures and modern braid line technology has certainly changed the face of  sport fishing, and with good reason

The classic target species we love to chase; snapper, kingfish, trevally and even bottom feeders such as blue cod, John dory and gurnard, are all suckers for these colourful rubbery baitfish imitations. Not only is this method of fishing extraordinarily effective, it keeps you constantly active, and can offer the saltwater angler a hint of the fly fisherman’s thrill when a fish grabs a nicely presented lure.

Typical softbiting technique

Set-up

Where once comparatively heavy rods and reels were used, soft bait rigs are scaled right down to be lightweight but still incredibly powerful. The typical soft bait outfit is a spinning or ‘eggbeater’ style combo, spooled with 3 – 10kg braid line and a 2 metre fluorocarbon leader.  

Attach the trace to the braid with an Albright knot (see diagram) and the end of the trace to the jig head with a loop to allow the lure free action. The Rapala loop is most common but the perfection loop will work well too.

Smaller 2500 to 3000 reels are best for soft baiting, and are heaps of fun on smaller fish while still being able to cope with biggert snapper and even the odd kingfish.

If you are on a kayak or small craft, try and get the best quality reel you can afford as they will get wet, and better gear just lasts so much longer asa well as being great to use.  There's no substitute for quality, so spend at least $350+ on a soft bait outfit if you can.

The Jig head must be threaded onto the line and fed through the main loop when completing the knot.  This allows the jig head to swing freely and perform with a natural action in the water. Jig heads will usually be 10 – 20 grams with 1/0 – 3/0 hook sizes.

Note the rigging of the soft bait retaining a straight 'fish' shape.  Avoid bends, which cause the lure to spin instead of wiggle.

NZFW sotbait expert Scott McDonnell prefers using a 5” jerk shad.  These are available in a vast array of colours, many of which defy any resemblance to a living organism, but they sure work nonetheless.  Scott favours using natural colours, but great results are often self-perpetuating.  Use your favourite all the time and it will naturally reap greater rewards!

In Autumn and winter, the bright orange colurs can be very effective for some reason, especially in low light.

Scenarios

In close

With this style of softbaiting, using stealth like a ninja is your key weapon and you need to actively work the boat along the coast in close to the rocks. It is also one of the most exciting methods as often a big snapper smashes your softbait and screams off into the weed, trying to bust you off.

Hot tip: Once you cast, don’t let the softbait sink to the bottom in the shallow water. As soon as the lure hits the water, flip the bail arm and start retrieving the line at a medium pace. This will help prevent it snagging in the shallows until you get several metres out into deeper water and you can slow the retrieve, which allows the softbait to sink.

Open water method

As with all softbait fishing, your softbait needs to be on or near the bottom to consistently produce snapper.  As you fish with them drifting in the boat you always need to cast ahead of the boat as it moves along.  This will ensure the jighead reaches the bottom and you then work the lure along the seabed until the boat catches up and you drift over it.  You can let more line out as you move past to keep in touch with the bottom but when there is too much line angle with the lure out the back you need to retrieve and cast out again.

Softbait summary

With any kind of fishing style, time on the water simply can’t be beaten and you need to get out there to regularly fish to see what works for you.  Make sure you take different sizes, colours and styles and you will build a sound knowledge on what works best.  

Slow pitch jigging

Micro-jig lures are usually designed to spark a reaction from fish, (they also tend to spark reactions from fisherman in shops). However, when used properly in slow-pitch jigging, they can be one of the most productive ways to target snapper and kingfish.

Technique

The retrieve of a slow pitch is dependent on the rod spring, lifting the lure and dancing it an attractive manner.

1. The starting position is pointing down towards the water.

2. Raise the rod to approximately 45 degrees with a smooth action.  

3. A final ‘flick’ at the top of the stroke helps raise the lure to give it a good distance to drop and flutter

4. Keep an eye on the line as the slack is taken up from the falling jig. The line will gradually pull tight as the lure falls, if there is any hesitation, it  means a fish has struck.

Here's a good tutorial video from our Aussie mates.  Just follow this lead and the fish we catch here in NZ will be bigger ;-)

The lure lift is just as important as the drop with slow pitch jigs, so it’s important to be paying attention at both times, but also concentrate on varying the retrieve rates to try and find the action that triggers a strike.

Retrieve rates can be altered with short or long pauses as well as full or half winds of the reel handle. Sometimes a careful half wind, rather than a long lift, once the lure has hit the bottom, can be a very effective technique.

Fishing with metal

The local incarnations of micro-jigs we see here in New Zealand have been adapted to fit with our unique fishing conditions. This means that while they are still called ‘micro-jigs’, they are designed to be larger than in other countries where the water is calmer and clearer.

Slow pitch jigs have two sides to them; the concave side is called the scallop, and the convex side is called the hull. These two opposites cause the jig to “flat fall” and sway from side to side when the line has no tension. This design leaves the jig in the strike zone for longer.

Mechanical jigging by comparison, is different because knife jigs are generally danced to the surface and don’t flutter as much.

Vibration is another element that can attract and draw fish to strike a lure. The lateral line of a bony fish is designed to sense electrical stimuli in the fish’s environment, either as a method of finding prey or of avoiding becoming lunch for a bigger fish.

Rigging

Most micro-jigs are rigged with assist hooks at the head and are generally small when compared to other kinds of lures. The design is intended catch the fish’s lips and surrounding jaw instead of deep within the mouth. Carefully playing the fish is important to avoid the hooks being ripped out of the fish’s lips.

Just about everything eats a slow pitch jig including john dory

Lighter line can help impart better action to a lure as it  offers reduced drag, allowing for a more natural presentation. It also allows deeper water to be fished, speeding up a light lures decent into the strike zone.

Mechanical jigging

Jigging should come with a warning as it's both addictive and an adrenalin rush.

The motion

The ‘motion’ or ‘rhythm’ is the most important part to the formula of mechanical jigging. Many of you have probably seen this motion being completed in some way, shape or form.

A good starting point to practice this technique is sit in the lounge with a rod and reel and practice the rhythm over and over while you are watching television.

Fighting the fish

Once you feel the initial hookup, keep jigging for 3 or 4 strokes to ensure you set the hook deep. While completing the extra strokes try to emphasis the stroke each time to set the hook home.

This is where the pain starts. If it’s a solid fish you will find yourself glued to the rail not being able to do much. Try and get a bit of line back before you switch to the gimbal.

Never lift the rod past 45 degrees as this diminishes the rod’s power and you could point load and break the rod. Work out how much you need to drop the rod to make one turn on the arm. Continue for as long as your arms will hold out.

Drag settings

Manufacturers of rods and reels will state what the maximum drag rating or setting the gear can take so try your best to stick within these guides. The general rule of thumb is to set your reel’s drag to one third of the line’s weight.

Lines and knots

Braid When it comes to jigging, using coloured braid that changes colour every 10m is a must. The purpose for this is for you to be able to calculate the depth your jig has dropped to. Braid strength for jigging is usually 24-37kg with the leader ranging from 37-60kg.

PR knot

The first important knot you will need to master is the “PR Knot”. This knot is can be quite complex, visit www.nzfishingworld.co.nz for a great how-to video.

Hooks

When choosing the correct hook
size you can float between 11/0 and 13/0 sizes.

Jigs

There is a lot of competition in the jigging market here in New Zealand. There is a large variety or styles and colours to choose from. The size of your set-up will determine the weight of the jig to buy. It might sound obvious but the general rule is to use a 300g jig on a 300g rated rod.

1. You will see the rod is held relatively high with the arm of the reel at 12 O'clock. As you drop the rod or start the stroke you will then start to turn the handle (this retrieves the slack line on the drop of the rod).

2. Now the rod is near horizontal and the reel arm should also match the rod being horizontal.

3. We continue to drop the rod and  we are now at the bottom of the stroke and the reel arm should be at 6 O'clock. So from the top of the stroke to the bottom of stroke equates to half a revolution on the reel. Moving from the bottom of the stroke back to the top of the stroke we complete another half a revolution of the reel from the 6 O'clock to 12 O'clock position back to picture 1.

4. This is one stroke or cycle. You then repeat this action smoothly with only a quick pause at the top of each stroke.

Here's the technique explained in video by pro jigger Edward Lee fro Catch Fishing

And here : 'Ten rules for jigging' video that might give you a few tips as well

Top water

Offering a combination of sight casting, precession casting and explosive surface bites, topwater fishing is one of the most action packed ways to fish.

Finding top water action

Your best weapon for finding topwater kingfish on top is,  believe it or not, your eyes.  Seeing kingfish on the surface feeding is every topwater fisherman’s dream come true.

Your next best artillery are birds; gannets and shearwaters are ideal. Once you spot birds diving, the odds will be in your favour that a kingfish or two is not too far behind.

After this you will need to look for structure and current, as these two common factors equate to bait fish and hopefully a few roaming kings.

Boat positioning

Assess all the elements like wind, current and swell. Position your vessel up wind, this will allow you to drift downwind while still casting with the wind. This will give you the best odds of seeing just how exciting and explosive kingfish are on the surface.

Technique

Learning to work a lure is a critical element in the equation of catching a topwater kingfish. A good way to practice this is to find a quiet spot in an estuary or harbour local to you.

Sweep Method

1. Cast at a target.

2. Wind the line up tight with your rod tip pointing at your lure.

3. With a small amount of slack line left, jerk the rod tip to have the lure dive under the surface followed with sweeping the rod back in one motion.

4. Wind up the slack line while moving the rod tip back to pointing at the lure. This will allow the lure to stop moving and sit upright on top.

5. Once you have almost wound up all the slack line repeat the sweep process. This method will mimic a wounded baitfish on the surface with an erratic “zig zag” pattern.

Video explaining the greater details right here:

Live baiting

A full tank of live bait and knowing what to do with them can be the difference between putting food on the table and going home empty handed

Using live bait or livies is a super effective way to lure in predator fish looking for an easy meal. Of course most famous for catching kingfish and gamefish, livies are also great for enticing XOS snapper, hapuka, bass, and John dory.

Tackle

The depth to be fished and size of live bait offering will govern the size of sinker to use. Generally an 8-oz sinker does the trick. NZFW kingfish expert Aaron Levien prefers to use a sliding sinker on a leader followed by a game swivel (heavy duty), then a leader again to a large circle hook. This is usually around 1 to 1.2-meters in length. To attach the swivel he uses a four-turn uni-knot or crimp thimbles, and to attach to the hook he uses an improved clinch knot. (see image)

Hot tip If you are targeting kingfish for sport then a circle is the best and safest option as it is less likely to gut or gill the fish.

Deploying your live bait

When dropping the live-bait do not allow the bait to hit the water and start swimming off in a random direction.

Ideally a clean deployment will allow the live-bait to swim to the desired depth, tangle free. If this doesn’t happen stop drop